GREEK Jews are no strangers to moussaka, the rich casserole traditionally
made from aubergine and lamb and thickly-layered with bechamel.
But because kosher laws prohibit the consumption of milk and meat
together, Jewish versions of the dish tend to either skip the bechamel,
which is a shame flavourwise, or make a dairy-free topping from
fat, flour and stock.
In this take, the moussaka’s aubergine base is paired with cremini
mushrooms instead of lamb, so it’s meat-free and perfectly-suited
for its creamy topping.
Moussaka is warming, hearty and easily transportable, making it
the perfect dish for al fresco meals on Succot.
The recipe is reprinted from my latest Little Book of Jewish Feasts.
*Leah Koenig’s books have included Little Book of Jewish Appetizers
and Modern Jewish Cooking.
Make the base and sauce: Preheat the oven to 400F. and
generously grease 2 large-rimmed baking sheets with about 3 tablespoons
of olive oil each. Slice 3 of the aubergines into ½-inch-thick rounds.
Arrange the aubergine slices in a single layer on the sheets,
brush the tops generously with more oil, and season with salt and
pepper. Bake, flipping the aubergine pieces once, until softened
and lightly browned, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and
set aside. Lower the oven temperature to 350F.
Meanwhile, chop the remaining aubergine into ½-inch cubes. Heat
the ¼ cup of oil in a large saute pan set over medium heat. Add
the onions and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally,
until soft and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.
Add the chopped aubergine and mushrooms, turn the heat to medium-high,
and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are very tender
and the liquid has cooked off, 10 to 15 minutes.
Stir in the garlic, oregano, cinnamon and allspice, and cook until
fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the crushed tomatoes, 1 teaspoon
salt and ½ teaspoon pepper.
Turn the heat to medium and simmer until slightly thickened, 5
to 10 minutes. Taste and add more salt and pepper, if desired.
Make the bechamel: Melt the butter in a medium saucepan
set over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk until fully combined,
then slowly whisk in the milk.
Simmer, whisking constantly, until the sauce thickens enough to
coat the back of a spoon, 5 to 10 minutes.
Whisk in about half of the Parmesan, 1 teaspoon salt and a generous
amount of pepper. In a separate small bowl, whisk the egg yolks
Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle about ½ cup of the hot bechamel
into the yolks. Turn the heat under the saucepan to medium-low and
slowly whisk the tempered egg mixture back into the bechamel. Remove
from the heat.
Assemble the moussaka: Grease the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch
baking dish. Layer half of the aubergine slices in the bottom of
the baking dish and cover with half of the sauce.
Layer the remaining aubergine slices into the dish and cover with
the remaining sauce. Evenly pour the bechamel over the top, smoothing
with a rubber spatula. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan.
Bake until bubbling and golden brown on top, 20 to 25 minutes.
Remove from the oven and let stand for 15 minutes before serving.
Serve hot. Store leftovers, covered, in the fridge for up to 3 days.